Powered by Bravenet Bravenet Blog

Tag Board

This tag board is currently empty.

Please type in the four characters shown in the black box.

Thursday, July 26th 2007

10:32 PM

Mzungu - Madam - Mwalimu

  • Mood: Sad to be leaving

Well guys it's about that time... Sigh.  My last week! Can you believe how quickly time flies? That comment goes for you and not me, every day here is pole pole, the favourite Swahili saying (pole = slowly) but it still doesn't feel like time to leave.

 

Our last few weeks have been very hectic, after the school holiday a few things were forgotten and it was a little disheartening realising that you have to be there constantly to make something work, not exactly the end result we had hoped for.  We have done a lot of good and we have implemented sustainable change, but it won't last in its current form without volunteer input - the teachers just haven't got the energy or the same work ethic.

 

The positives: We've gone from having zero structure to the day to having a well balanced and rehearsed timetable with interactive lessons, food, teeth brushing, playtime, exercise and structured play.  The teachers and children alike enjoy the timetable and everyone seems more stimulated.  The teachers have grown in confidence and their ability to teach in creative ways and use their own ideas have doubled.  The children have also learnt new songs, English and have been taught to use their imaginations with art work, role play and lots of new brain teaser games like jigsaws, snap, memory cards and much more.  We have a bright airy painted school which is kept clean, a new office and a new banda for teaching outside lessons, plus lots of new supplies.

 

I've learnt so much over the past few months about the Swahili culture, about Tanzania and its ways of life - it's not the sort of place you can just turn up and make 'changes'.  Not that I ever wanted to do that as such, I wanted to help the community we are working in adapt things in their own ways for the better, after all we can't dictate what other people do.  But someone has to want to change, and the people here are very content in their ways of life.  Some of them are starving and others are orphans, there's hardly any work and many people are homeless, but these are not things you can change. 

 

The negatives: One person can only help a few people at once and one organisation in one village can only help a small group of people.  It feels like a constant battle, (if you care like I do) against culture barriers and against a Government that isn't doing enough for its country, and a people who aren't united in looking towards the future and working towards their own goals.  I guess it must sound like I'm generalising massively, I really don't mean to, I'm talking about Bagamoyo and I'm no expert.  I do feel like I have a better insight into a nation wide problem of poverty and a terrible education system that is failing most of its students. But I do know that volunteering like I have been doing is testing and you don't come out of it feeling like you've solved any problems.  I don't mean to sound negative, but I am realistic about the situation here and the role of the volunteer.

 

It seems as though too many big charities are ripping off young college kids (I am NOT talking about GVN or the Zukri Foundation here) and too many young kids are just bothered about a) their CV or b) playing with cute babies for 2 weeks, getting a tan then going home again having done nothing.  Unfortunately I seem to care too much to fall in to either of these categories.  If I didn't care then I wouldn't be so frustrated with the outcome and so anxious about the future of the children here.  I had to stop teaching the afternoon lessons for one week because I was becoming so frustrated with going round in circles with the teachers.  We already lost one of the teachers we trained to university and another to a different school, so we are now left with the head teacher and a young woman who has no formal teaching experience and no English.

 

Culture and language barriers have been massive.  People here just don't speak English and they don't think in the same ways as we do, so how am I supposed to teach adults who not only can't understand me but also if they could understand me wouldn't identify with the concepts I'm talking about?  Words like interaction and creativity don't have Swahili translations and lesson planning, keeping to a timetable and planning for the future are simply not things that Swahili people do.  That's not to say they're not great students, because they are, they're so willing to learn and so curious about other cultures and ways of life.  But it has been a struggle; it has tested everything inside me from patience to positive thinking to improvisation and every once of my energy… that's without mentioning keeping 50 children entertained every day!!

 

I have so many wonderful stories to tell and individual experiences that have changed my life on the spot and I will remember forever.  Those things are so plentiful, amazing individuals I have met, people making me laugh and cry, the day that the children saw me walking down the path to school and ran all the way together to greet me, Idrisa who always gives me a kiss, Mwanhamisi who is the only one who calls me by my name, having gone from being called Mzungu (slightly derogatory) to Madam (better) to Mwalimu, meaning teacher, the ultimate sign of respect in this culture, not just by the children but also by other people in the village.  Being invited to the Muslim celebrations, Saidi's face when he sees me every day, little Janet clinging on to me all the time, Aleyma and Hidaya, Ramadhani pretending he's the tough guy, little Raimu walking 6km every day to school, Asha the bravest girl in the world, the family who live across from school, Brian our 4 year old neighbour, having a beach fire with dancing and drumming last night to say goodbye.. so many things I can never explain properly but will always feel in my heart.

 

Three months hasn't been enough, but 'real' life must carry on.  I will be back for more volunteering that's for sure, but I now think I want to start attacking from the top! Grass roots volunteering is an amazing personal experience and you do help other people but what you have to remember is that a 'building a new school project in Africa' may sound nice on paper, but you're actually taking someone’s job.  Ever thought of it that way?  We helped clear the foundations for the new school only because our NGO literally had no money to pay the laborers, but as soon as skilled builders were on sight, what was the point of us being there? None. (Although I did learn that playing with machetes is dangerous haha!) 

 

My point is, there’s only so much 'difference' you can make.  You have to keep thinking of it in this way: Every day 50 children came to school, they got a meal, they got attention, they got interaction with adults and other children, they played games, songs and learnt some Maths and English, they brushed their teeth, washed their face and got a glass of water.  This is more than they would have done roaming the streets and it is better than 50 children not doing these things.  If you get caught up thinking about the bigger picture (which I tend to) then you can easily feel like your efforts will be forgotten.  That's not to say I was useless, there was a great need for me at the school, I worked incredibly hard and I don't think anything was a wasted effort.  The project can't exist without volunteer input and funding and I was able to use some of my skills and knowledge to help the teachers.

 

I hope I'm making sense and I am conscious that I haven't actually told you what I have done here!  Now this would be an essay... so instead let me offer you the chance of reading my report for the Zukri Foundation, if you want to see it please ask and I'll email it to you, and if you want to see a list of the donations we have given to BACCA 2, especially relevant to those of you who have sponsored the project, please also ask.

 

Thanks for listening, see you all after climbing Mount Kilimanjaro... eek xx

1 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Friday, July 20th 2007

11:36 PM

5555km and 5 countries in 3 weeks...

  • Mood: Exhausted
Tanzania - Kenya - Uganda - Rwanda - The DR Congo and BACK!!!
 
(Dad I know you're going to kill me and I'm sorry, but I'm safe now)
 
Hello my lovelies..
 
I seriously don't know where to start, and i certainly can't write it all in detail for my blog, so I'm going to give a 'short' email a bash here... amy style!
 
Basically, a short trip to Mombasa, Kenya, turned into a marathon overland journey from Dar all the way to The Congo and then back again - all in 3 weeks!! Typical African style, try making a plan and it all ends on the spot.  SO as I said, i have no idea where to start... I've learnt so much in such a short space of time about East Africa, the cultures, histories, backgrounds, landscapes, political situations and everything in between, i can't even begin to give you an idea of the disparities / similarities and massive contradictions between and within the various countries. Not to mention a very moving and emotional personal journey.
 
I CAN however, tell you all about the absolute f-ing NIGHTMARE that is travelling around E Africa by bus!! But I fear I may give myself a heart attack if I go there.. Let's just say I never knew such hell was possible, that in the past 48 hours before arriving back in Bagamoyo I spent over 36 of those on a bus, on a bus with no windows, no escape, 9 people per row on a 4-seater, people sitting on stools in the poor excuse that was the isle, driving on roads with no ROAD haha, massive pot holes for thousands of miles on end, the loudest horns ever, bandits, pitch black terrifying mountain regions, torrential rain, thunderstorms, crossing borders on foot, breaking down and much much more.  And that's only the buses!! Hitch-hiking on the back of trucks, taking cattle trucks, lorries, boats, canoes, cars, taxis, dala-dalas, matatus and boda-bodas (otherwise known as motorbikes with no helmets) is a whole other chapter.
 
Nearly 6000km over land and all i can say is - never again! A very wise person once said to me, whilst travelling in Africa, you either need lots of time or lots of money - of which i have neither.  That person was, in my opinion, spot on.
 
SO what did I do??? In a sentence, I went white water rafting on the Nile(!!!) - the worlds most fierce Grade 5/6 rapids, I went trekking all over the place, I visited Dar, Tanga, Mombasa, Nairobi (Nairobbery), Mbale, Kampala, Lake Bunyonyi (beautiful), Kigali, Ruhengeri, Gisenyi, Goma, Moshi, I stood on the equator, had a spell cast on me by a witch, saw White Rhinos, met the real life African cabbage patch kid, walked across the Uganda-Rwanda border on Genocide Day (July 4th) on my own to find a ghost country, saw Genocide criminals being marched around in their pink jump-suits, visited the Kigali memorial centre, cried my bloody eyes out, visited orphanages, got pick-pocketed and have no money left, caught my first glimpse of Mt Kilimanjaro, which by the way is GIGANTIC!!!!!! and that's all I can remember off the top of my head.
 
But I have to say the absolute best thing, second only to the white water rafting, was climbing Mount Nyiragongo in the DR Congo. Remember that massive active volcano that erupted in 2002 wiping out Goma? Well it's still active and for a small fee you can walk to the top, sit on the crater rim and watch the Lava Lake 900m below.  Words cannot describe the feeling sat there.. photos cannot depict the absolute monstrosity of a kilometre wide lake of lava, the sound of it like jumbo jets taking off all around you, the smell of sulphur, oh my god it was the scariest and most awesome thing I have ever experienced, I literally sat there at 4000m altitude with my mouth wide open, could not believe what I was seeing. I really can't describe it to you, other than that I am still in shock over a week later thinking about it. 
 
I'm even more in shock that the very same day, a woman FELL INTO the volcano, a woman that we met on the way down, she was walking up.. and it was headline news.  AND we bumped into a gang of rebels in the jungle below, which was a little less than fun, our armed guide and his measly single AK47 seemed a little less appealing faced with a gang.  But they left us alone.  Goma is like a war zone and it is absolutely terrifying, the only people other than armed militia/guards/police/gangs/civilians/rebels hanging around are UN Peace Keepers, and I will not be returning there for a very long time, unless of course I reach my goal of one day working for the UN.
 
Sorry this is becoming very long so I will cut the very crazy story short and say - if you want to know more, just ask and I will tell all, but it may take some time for me to reply because we have so much going on in Bagamoyo, unbelievably busy, and over 100 little eyes will be staring up at me tomorrow morning wanting me to entertain them, so bye for now..
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Wednesday, June 20th 2007

7:51 PM

The Uluguru Mountains

  • Mood: Excited about Kenya!
So we finally made it up a mountain!  After finally getting my strength back, we went to the Uluguru mountains last weekend to do a 2 day trek up to 1900m from sea level.  Not very high in altitude but it was difficult, virtually all of it was steep uphill hiking, rather than any traversing or paths, needless to say I came back with very sore feet and thighs!
 
The Uluguru mountains are situated around the pretty town of Morogoro, 6 hours from home. We set off on Friday afternoon - 2 hour daladala to Mwenge - 30 minute daladala to Ubungo bus station in Dar, by this time it was nearly dark and we found ourselves in the wrong place not knowing what to do... Unbelievably we found a genuinely nice and helpful man who walked us all the way to the right place (i was happy to find out that it is possible to find people who don't want you to pay them for any tiny piece of help) and we booked the bus to Morogoro.  There's the 'safe' company and the 'fast' company - we later found out - we were on the fast one.  A white knuckle ride to say the least, almost as bad as what I like to call the death bus that I took in Vietnam (16 hours), at least it wasn't raining.  So 4 hours later we arrived in Morogoro in the pitch black.  Let me just digress and tell you a little about the darkness in Tanzania....
 
The darkness here literally swallows you whole... There's 12 hours of light, 12 hours of dark, 6.30 - 6.30 - 6.30, every day, every season, all year - no change. No sleepy summer sunsets that last forever so you can enjoy evening drinks outside or BBQs - just darkness.  There is no electricity in most towns and zero in villages, no street lights anywhere, even in major cities like Dar, then add to this darkness the lack of cars, buildings with lights, even people with torches - you sort of begin to get the idea.  So when the sun sets - that's it, and it's really quite hard to get used to!  Obviously we don't go out that much in Bagamoyo after dark but when I do I take a torch and know where I'm going.  Arriving in Morogoro to at least 30 men waiting outside the bus door, grabbing me, trying to take my bag, all trying to tout for their taxi/guest house is not quite the same! Also, of course, 99.999999999% of people living here have very dark skin, so at night you can't actually see anybody (except me, I'm sort of a like a glowing white beacon, attracting the wrong kind of attention after dark).  You can walk right past people or actually bump into people before you've seen them!  When travelling on the bus you drive past hundreds/thousands of people that you can only see in the headlights at the last minute.  Tanzania seems to come alive at night on the road sides, despite the dark, with people seemingly walking in the middle of nowhere, to nowhere, selling things, socialising, hustling.... children are still out playing, nobody has a torch, just a few of the crappy Kerosene lights that let off a dingy orange glow.  They must have magical powers of being able to see in the dark (and there are no carrots around here so I know that was all a lie now....)
 
RIGHT - back to Morogoro - we finally got in a taxi to an absolute hell hole of a guest house, sooooo shit hehe but very very cheap and that's exactly what we needed - 2 pounds each including breakfast! Bargain! Then we went to eat the WORST meal I have ever had in my life haha, just to top off an excellent day travelling (sarcasm) which ended up in me eating some tomato soup, at least it was something.  (My first choice was a vegetable stir fry, which I can only describe as a plate of small fish covered in bright pink toffee.... interesting, and Rob's pizza was indescribable - how can you not get it right!? Dough - cheese - stuff - oven.)
 
Then I got in bed, bug net ok, quite quiet and surprisingly cold - typical weather at the base of a mountain I guess - and went to sleep hungry.  THEN I get woken up not only by being next to a train track, but also by being in ear shot of 1) a loud hotel 2) a nightclub 3) a church with chimes! The loudest and strangest sounding bells I've ever heard 4) a whole family of massive crows jumping around and landing all over the corrugated iron roof... excellent! It was so bad I had to laugh or I might have cried, needless to say got up and set off quite early.
 
Went to find the Chilungu Cultural Tourism office that had been recommended to us, to find a guide and some camping equipment.  Met a lovely team of young guys, of which James was our guide.  Packed up the tents , sleeping bags etc and set off walking, we walked around 10km in the first day and the same the second but it was all very very steep.  The Uluguru mountains are a 25 million year old mountain range with a protected rain forest at the top (it starts at around 1400m) which is one of the few remaining.  The Luguru tribe live up the mountain, they are a matrilineal tribe (excellent!!!!!) women own the land and are successors to all things great, they make the decisions etc.  We hiked to Choma Village (which consists of around 6 houses) at 1200m in the baking sun then left our bags so we could carry on up to the rain forest.  Inside the forest it was much more damp, cool, with of course the tallest trees I've ever seen.
 
On the way up and down we were astounded to see children as young as about 8 right up to old women, carrying wood (massive bundles/big heavy logs) barefoot, up and down the mountain - and they all run! It's unbelievable how fit those people are, they're there overtaking me - sweating and bright pink - not even bothered.  But they do start them young!  There were  children everywhere too, and on the way up they were actually running away from me, crying in fear pf the Muzungu! Hahaha very very mental, people down here stare but this was something else, people were afraid to come near me or touch me and the children had genuine fear.  It's very off the beaten track and not a tourist attraction at all so it will be rare they see any white people - for some of the young children I was probably the first they had ever seen.  I didn't see another white person or another tourist even, the whole weekend.
 
We came back down from the rain forest after finding our path obscured by a fallen tree - the locals dream come true because it's illegal to chop the trees down for firewood (it doesn't stop them however).  We swam in waterfalls (well I dipped in it was f-ing cold) and chilled out on massive boulders in the sun on the way back.  Set up camp outside a woman's house, in her garden a long with a dog and 2 incredibly large cows.. with an amazing view over Morogoro, it's so green up there!  Watched sunset.. and played with 2 adorable children, Rehma and Athumani, who thankfully weren't too scared of me.  I took loads of photos with them and when I showed them the image on the display screen, Rehma kept saying 'Meme, Muzungu' (me, white person) each time we flicked through photos, so funny.  Then when I told her my name, to see if she would say that instead, I said "Jina langu ni Amy" (my name is Amy) and she said "langu ni Muzungu!!!!!" Charming! She was so beautiful though I forgave her hehe, wanted to bring her back home with me.
 
We ate in the woman's house with Rehma on my lap (she was one of the daughters) in almost pitch blackwe had Ugali with Cassava and potato leaves and had to eat it with our hands - a skill I have yet to master.  I was also eating with both hands until I realised everyone else was right hand only.. and Rob's a lefty so that made the situation even more confusing for them.  It's also seen as impolite to refuse food when it's given to you here, so I got force fed, they kept loading my plate up, never been so full.  (I actually put some Cassava in my pocket once at someones house in Bagamoyo so I didn't have to eat any more.. haha)
 
Woke up to the sound of cows, chickens and an awesome view.  Had boiled Cassava (a type of root vegetable, very bland) with nothing on it for breakfast and a big mug of fresh cow milk, unpasteurised loveliness mmmmm..... :/  Packed up the tents and traversed round the mountain to a place called Morningside, it's the old German BOMA and was used in the war.  Went into the church there and sat around for a while taking in the scenery.  Then 4 hours back down the mountain into Morogoro - I actually don't enjoy walking down hill, it was steep and damp and having to look at your feet the whole time isn't much fun.
 
All in all a fantastic and tiring weekend and definitely good practice for Kilimanjaro, camping in uncomfortable conditions and wearing my boots in..
 
Next Stop - Mombassa!!!
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Thursday, June 14th 2007

1:23 PM

Half way there...

  • Mood: Happy, thoughtful, pensive.
  • Music: Spearhead
I don't know why I'm saying half way there, like 'there' is a good place - when in fact 'there' is actually a cold, rainy and dark England, filled with text books, lectures and working 9-5, but I'm sure you get the idea - I've been volunteering here for 6 weeks now, so just felt like I should fill you in.
 
***
 
Firstly - I'm sorry (?) for not writing every day etc, I know some people with blogs do, but I'm actually finding it quite hard to put down my thoughts, feelings and experiences into words, as I really don't think my words do this place any justice.  It's so amazing, you really have to be here to understand... but I will try! I also don't know who my audience is! I'm not sure anyone even bothers to read this, so when it's sunny outside and there are children to play with or things to explore then that's what I'm doing instead!
 
Right now I'm just sat waiting for Yassini & Mohammedi (our teachers) to arrive for an English and computer lesson for a couple of hours, then me & Rob are going to finish making the little goodie bags for the children.. it's taken a while but we've decided to give all the donated goodies to our school children in one go; clothes*, toys, shoes, wash kits etc, so we've made them all party bags to take home tomorrow, should be a very fun morning! They get so happy when they get a large piece of chalk to write with or a sharp pencil.. if you actually give them something like a toy or a pen they don't know what to do with it!
 
* Just to give you an idea of how small and malnourished our children are - the clothes we had donated were all ages 18 months - 3 years MAX and they will ALL fit our children, some of whom will be 7 this year.
 
***
 
On Wednesday, we took 10 of the most poorly children to Bagamoyo District Hospital - aka the hell hole - for a check up.  This place is basically one square corridor, outdoors, with about 10 rooms, of which 3 were open, and a 'pharmacy'.  It is absolutely filthy, I mean filthy, dirty, rancid, cockroaches, excrement, needles on the floor, they re-use things, there are thick layers of dirt on the floor and walls, there is nothing sterile about the place, there's no gloves, no soap, no chairs. Rob and I had to go on our own because Mohammedi's girlfriend got Malaria and Yassini had to stay at school with the others, so we had nobody to help or to translate for us. The children started crying as soon as they realised where we were going.. which was a bad start. Then there was the queue, well i say 'queue' but what i actually mean is a waiting room where everyone pushes in wherever the hell they want and show no respect for anyone else, especially 10 sick children, of whom 2 were visibly very ill - we had to have one on each arm at all times.
 
When we finally got round to our turn at reception and I said "Watoto kume' (10 children) and handed over a list of their names, the 4 people sat behind the counter looked at me like I just spat on them.  Oh no, they thought, how dare this horrible Muzungu come and make us do some work this morning. Between the 4 of them, it took over 10 minutes to write down 10 names/ages, while of course the rest of the people in the waiting room were becoming irate, not to mention the kids.  In a place where everything is 50 times slower than in the UK, these people aren't half impatient at times.  Got charged 500 Tsh per child for the check-up, which is 20 pence.
 
Then we got moved on to rooms "8, 9 or maybe 15" to sit on the floor and wait.  Found one of the girls playing with a used needle that she found on the floor. Great. After a while I made Rob go into one of the treatment rooms (people just walk in and out here whenever they please, even if someone is being seen by the doctor) and we finally found our opening, ushered all the children into the room and I put some spare rocks (!) behind the door so nobody could interrupt us (feeble attempt - at least 3 people came in).
 
THANK GOD (i am becoming more religious every day out here) we had a reasonably nice, reasonably friendly, reasonably thorough female doctor who didn't seem to hate me for bringing these poorly, starving little things for a check up.  She looked at each one individually (lit: looked, no touching) and asked me, not them, what was the matter.  She spoke OK English which was also a miracle so we were able to explain the problems, and most of them have physical signs anyway - this was the outcome:
 
Asha - severe burns, badly infected, fever, bad cold
Raimu - skin infection (head) impetigo, intestinal worms
Nasra - sores on body, bad cold, skin infection on head
Saidi - conjunctivitis, worms, some freaky infection on all his toes
Abilai - SEVERE ear infection (which if left would cause brain meningitis)
Hashimu - severe skin infection on head, impetigo
Muzne - conjunctivitis, mumps
Awazi - skin infection on head, sores
Faudhia - mumps  (she was also sick on me.. hmm)
Kidawa - Scabies..................................................... urgh. (highly contagious)
 
 
I'm sure this is too much information, but at least you don't have these problems yourselves! Needless to say, the skin disease and conjunctivitis children are not allowed to come to school until they're clear.  Since then we have had 3 more cases of conjunctivitis, along with my paranoia that I'm going to contract it, as well as scabies and impetigo.
 
We went round to the pharmacy to collect the mass of drugs, which, all in all came to less than 10,000 Tsh (6 pounds).  And yesterday we went round the various children's' houses to hand out the drugs.  My shoes broke on the way so I was barefoot, which attracted lots of attention, even though nobody here wears shoes, bizarre. I also fell off my bike and cut myself whilst riding it barefoot - renting a bike has been amazing - we get to school in half the time, seeing the town is more accessible and I can escape crazy people who want to talk to me!! My cycling skills, however, are not amazing, and people here drive like maniacs, so I'll get back to you on whether it was a good idea..
 
So I got to see where some of our children live, very interesting.  Most are mud huts and all have nothing in them.  All the kids have at least 4/5 siblings including a few babies and pregnant mummies. The other children don't seem to go to school even though they're around the same age.  Because there aren't many free schools around here (like ours) it's common that families either pick one child to get an education, or give each child say a years education, so they all get a little bit.  Neither are ideal.  It took lots of explanation about how to administer the various drugs, in the West we take for granted things like just knowing how to use eye drops or about hygiene, but the people here don't and most of our children's' parents have had no education at all.
 
We can only hope that the parents give them the drugs properly and let them rest, but it's unlikely. 6 times a day eye drops? Washing their feet 4 times a say with medicated soap then using special cream? With 5 other children and a job to do.  And mostly it's not even parents looking after the kids, it's their older siblings (sometimes only older by a year) and some of our 4/5 year olds have the responsibility or their younger siblings when they get home from school - it's quite common to see a 4 year old carrying water on their head and a 6 month baby on their hip.
 
***
 
Am going to climb the Uluguru mountains this weekend with Rob (2400m from sea level, 3/4 days trek) it was scheduled for last weekend but I ended up being too weak and stayed in bed all weekend instead, after having a malaria test (which was horrendous, and negative) i just decided I must be knackered!
 
It was a good thing we stayed at home though because we witnessed the dog that bit Rob actually DIE of rabies, right in front of our eyes, which put a whole new perspective on the situation.  We had originally been really complacent because he had been bitten by a dog that lives in our compound, a dog that we knew was healthy.  It then decided to start acting strange, before dying in our garden, paralysed apart from the head, foaming at the mouth, biting itself and the wall, barking in a strange/high pitched way - it followed the text book Rabies symptoms to it's last breath (i was very disturbed watching this, i do love dogs, but had to film it so the doctor could see    So we were terrified!  Rob had to go back to hospital in Dar again and we had to warn the authorities, because it turns into a public health issue when a dog dies of rabies, all the other dogs in the area need to be isolated/vaccinated and/or killed.  Of course they weren't!!  And 2 more children were taken to hospital this week after dog bites.. so now we're shit scared all the time, especially at night, waiting for rabid dogs to jump out at us. I think Rob's ok though?!
 
***
 
We've also started building a new school! BACCA - the NGO that runs our school - is opening their 3rd school in a few weeks(?!) time, so we actually get to help with the labour, select the poorest children in the neighbourhood and see it open which will be unbelievable! It should all materialise in the next month but This Is Africa so I don't have my hopes up. Either way, it's something I've never done before, but have always wanted to, and I think there's something wonderful about helping to physically create a building which will last forever and be used for such a great purpose.
 
We started by hacking down the long grass/trees/shrubs (head height!!) with massive machetes, the locals make this look so easy but it's NOT!! It's absolutely back-breaking work, in this heat with no gloves, my hands are blistered and my body aches.  That part is now finished, so next come the foundations and then the building work.  Needless to say there will be photos on the way!
 
***
 
Feel like I've written enough for now and I have to go teach English, which, by the way, is bloody hard!!!!!!!!!! I wish I had done the TEFL course, lucky I learnt French because if not I would have no idea how to do it.. English is so complex!  I'm learning a whole new scope to patience and improvisation, you would not believe!  I'm also picking up Swahili really well now which makes me happy I can communicate with the children and am just starting to understand bits when it's spoken around me, which is great.  It's a very easy language, I reckon a year out here and you'd be well on your way - obviously it helps that nobody can speak English, so you have no choice but to learn it or you can't survive!
 
***
 
 
The things i miss most about home - hot showers and protein!! (I've been quite ill for about 3 weeks now, beginning to think i might be anaemic or just exhausted from bad diet and doing too much; you can see why the people around here have bloated stomachs - in particular the children - because all we have to eat is Ugali and rice with nothing on! It's like empty food, you eat loads, feel full then are hungry within the hour and can't eat again for 7 hours .. or all weekend).
 
The things i enjoy most about life in Bagamoyo - the children and their funny, smiley little faces, the peace and quiet, the simplicity of life, the sunshine (!) the beach and the scenery.
 
 
 
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Thursday, June 7th 2007

11:18 PM

What a week!

  • Mood: Tired tired tired tired
  • Music: Banging headache!
Lost in Translation
 
This week has been so tough.  School is really hard, the hardest thing I've ever done, the biggest challenge.  I'd say the things that I've learnt most so far are patience, taking things slowly (TIA!!!) and not getting frustrated.  It's like one step forward 2 steps back at all times, even more so with the language barrier. Last week we had no afternoon lessons with the teachers because they were both ill and thought they had Malaria (the cook at home, Happy, does actually have Malaria at the moment).  Our third teacher Dina (she was more like an anti-teacher, long story) just stopped turning up, so our recent division of the children into 3 ability-based classes and the new banda to accommodate the third class has gone to pot..
 
So one teacher down and everyone ill, (including me) the children are always hungry and find it hard to concentrate, lots of them have been getting restless and upset, some of them still can't write the letter A and will be 7 this year.. they also have to pass an exam to get into primary school - the only chance of getting some sort of decent education based on your ability at age 6 and a half.. Plus all the ideas I have for the school and for the teachers get totally lost in translation, I don't speak Swahili and their English is very limited, which makes explaining anything 100 times harder.  So many times they have got the totally wrong idea about something I've said and then I have to think of different ways of explaining it, until finally it's completely lost it's original sense and ends up not being done. Very draining.
 
Not to mention that Rob got bitten by a dog on Monday night, one that hasn't been vaccinated for rabies and is slightly mental.. so we had a whole night of worrying, waiting for the insurance company to get back to us with whether we had to fly to Nairobi or South Africa to get a rabies injection - what a nightmare.  It turns out he could get it done at the Aga Khan hospital in Dar, so we had to miss school and get there asap in the morning.  After being told he would need 5 more injections, we found out the cost - which is likely to bankrupt both of us pretty quickly - and mess up our travel/school arrangements. 
 
To top it off, on the way home from the hospital we got the worst daladala ever - 35 on a 14 seater bus, I was stood up, bent over, between a rather large lady and a pregnant woman with a baby, it was horrendous, then the traffic had to stop for  a while because some sort of government convoy had taken over the road.  Out of the 35, three of the women were so large that they needed 2 seats each, they tried to squeeze me between them at one stage but I refused.  It turns out if you are a little overweight here they make you pay for 2 seats on the bus!!  Make you pay yet don't actually allow you the luxury of having 2 seats, they still cram everyone in around you, no wonder they looked so pissed off... It's hard to put into words how bad travelling in Africa is, you really have to be here to experience it, but it's like nothing I've ever seen before.  I literally have to shut my mind off and take myself to a happy place or I would jump out of the window - if I could get near a window + if their weren't bars on the windows + if we weren't going 130kph.
 
It wasn't until we stopped to get money in Jangwani that Rob realised he'd lost his Visa card............
 
Then a 4 day water and internet cut - I thought bad luck came in threes!
 
 
Mikumi
 
So we went on Safari last weekend and it was unbelievable!
 
Went to Mikumi National Park, a little off the beaten track and not as touristy as the Serengeti etc up in Northern Tanzania, plus it has all the animals including the big 5.  It's a 6 hour journey from here, through Dar then 4 hours inland, past the Uluguru Mountains (beautiful, didn't realise how much I missed the mountains until I saw them again).
 
Got picked up in our private 4x4 Safari vehicle at 6.30am on Saturday and arrived in Mikumi after lunch,  (very luxurious compared to the daladala!!) on the way down the main road to the lodge where we were staying we saw elephants (tembo), giraffe (twiga - Tanzania's national animal) and baboons, one of the elephants was in the middle of the road and he didn't like the look of us at all.. he gave us the charge signal (sort of flapped his head and ears lots and stamped his feet) and started walking towards our vehicle, was a little unnerving as African elephants are extremely dangerous and so much bigger than the elephants I've seen in Asia.  So our amazing guide Peter had to reverse the car really slowly but then there were more elephants behind the vehicle so instead he opted for driving away really quickly!
 
Went to our safari lodge and had lunch then went on an afternoon game drive until sunset, we were really lucky with the weather, it rained solidly in Bagamoyo last week, every day, and we were worried the weather would be awful on Safari but it was lovely and sunny  The grass was very long in the park though meaning the animals are much harder to spot, thought this would spoil the safari, as it's the 'worst' time of year to go but for me it was exciting trying to find the animals! Not knowing where they were and that they could come out at any minute.
 
That afternoon we saw more elephants, (including babies and pregnant ones) giraffes, (and baby ones) zebra, wildebeest, Buffalo (hilarious!) Thompson's gazelles, impalas, warthogs, hippos!!!, crocodiles, vulchers, stalks, baboons, and best of all LIONS! All in the wild, it's a truly breathtaking experience, one of the best days of my life.  Of course their are no boundaries on any of the game reserves in Tanzania so in theory the animals can go where the hell they want! You hear some horror stories about them getting hungry/thirsty in the dry season and wandering into towns etc.. lots of locals seem to get eaten by leopards and trampled by elephants.
 
Anyway the lion story is the best! Peter managed to spot them quite far away, they were asleep under a tree.. you're not supposed to go off the tracks so we carried on and went around the park.  On the way back, Peter stopped the car, got out and started walking towards the lions! We obviously thought he was mad (I got it all on film) but he is an expert in 'walking safaris' too so he seemed to think he was safe.  Then he came back over to the car, did something to the tyres (there was an off road setting or something) then just drove into the bush towards the lions and drove right up next to them!! We were so scared at first but it was brilliant, it was a lioness and her 2 boy cubs, they were awake just lounging around and grooming each other under the shade of this tree, breathtaking. I have it all on video.  Peter said Lions don't tend to attack humans in cars because the car is bigger than them, like an elephant for example, so they just leave it alone.  But when you stick your head out of the open top roof you do notice them change a bit, they see you rather than one big object and they start to lick their lips.. hehehe.
 
That was definitely the highlight.  The next morning we left at 6.30am to try and find the big cats but unfortunately they outsmarted us Couldn't find any leopards, there are loads at the park but because they live alone and are notoriously shy/good at hiding they're impossible to find, but we did try!
 
Then we drove back through Morogoro town - a beautiful place at the base of the mountains - for a lovely fish lunch and drinks before sleeping all the way back to Dar then getting the daladala back to Bagamoyo.  Couldn't face the tight squeeze on the way back so we bought an extra seat - 4 seats between 3 (normally they would fit 4/5 in the space - so painful) but it wasn't the best idea in the world because the locals on the bus thought we were being a bit flashy and kept looking at us saying 'tatu!' (three) in astonishment- it obviously had never happened before, but at least we had room to breathe.
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Friday, May 25th 2007

2:22 PM

Thief

  • Mood: Sunburnt
  • Music: Silence, at last
On our way back from the beach this morning (Friday is beachy day, so much fun) there was all this commotion outside the school, tens of people and shouting, I saw 2 men who I thought were fighting so told the children to go inside school (of course they ran towards the chaos instead..)
 
It was actually a thief.  He was getting beaten up by tens of people, men, women, children, with big rocks, stick & one man with a Machete.  There is only one serious crime in Tanzania, theft, and only one punishment - they publicly beat them to death.
 
I tried to take a photo (obviously) but got shouted at by a scary man with a stick so just watched instead but they all ran off after him so didn't get to see what happened.
 
I told Kristin about it just now at lunch (the woman who runs the Zukri Foundation, the charity we work for -http://www.zukri.org/aboutus.html) and she said she's seen a thief get shot in the street in Dar and another who had rope attached to his wrists and ankles and was being pulled in every direction and beaten by the men whilst being spat at by the women.
 
In hindsight, perhaps this is the reason why the man that stole my friends phone in Dar gave it back to readily.. before we had the chance to shout 'thief ' I guess.
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Thursday, May 24th 2007

9:31 PM

All sorts!

  • Mood: Hungry?
  • Music: Chattering Swahili security guards
Yuk.  Plantain for tea yet again.. in a weird brown sauce, I really don't like Plantain: it looks like a banana but tastes like a potato (except not as nice) and has an awful texture in your mouth.  What makes it worse is that 50% of the volunteers in the house now have a parasite (worm) living in their stomachs, you can get it from bad food or from the wet sand in monsoon season.. I spend a lot of my time barefoot so I feel like I'm waiting to get sick
 
Painting School + New Banda
 
We started painting the school on Monday! Almost finished it today - it looks SO much better, we did it all ourselves with the help of our teachers & Amanda my roommate (plus a few little helpers...) We did about 5 hours a day, it  took 4 coats of white in the end.. We found something called Chakka which is a limestone powder/salt/water mix and it dries white (like the old school white wash my dad says..) so this made an excellent base layer.  We had to put Monday behind us  and all that money we spent.. because the first coat totally disappeared. Rubbish.
 
We are also paying for a new Banda to be built outside - this is a wooden type of outhouse like the one we have at the volunteer house, we're going to use it for Class C (we have 3 classes all in the same room at the moment- mayhem).  This will mean more space, comfort, peace and concentration for the children (in theory!) I can't wait! It's going to take a week to build but should make the world of difference, at the moment having all those children in the same room is just so difficult. I will post some photos asap so you can see the result!  It was good that the parents could come today to a nice white school and also it will be finished for tomorrow afternoon - The birth of Mohamed.
 
Our school is an Islamic school in the afternoon/place where people pray and also all our children are Muslim.  Babu (this means Grandfather- the man that owns the building - he has Elephantitis in his foot you might be able to see from the photos) is the village leader and is also a Muslim, very highly respected, and he asked us to finish the painting before Friday because it is the Islamic version of Christmas this weekend here.  I have now been invited to join in the celebrations which involves: 'Choosing the rice' tomorrow afternoon with all the women, cooking on Saturday afternoon, again with the women, then a big celebration on Saturday night! I'm really looking forward to it, should be so interesting.  I will have no idea what's going on but if I just turn up in traditional clothes & smile lots I should be on to a winner!  Will let you know what happens...
 
Teacher-parent day!
 
We had an open day today for the guardians of our children! Very interesting.  Only around 20 adults turned up, and almost the same number of babies (the women have no stigma about breastfeeding in public here..). 4 of them were men, 3 of whom were Grandad's, and the rest were young women, apart from 1 Grandma, all of them were Muslim.  We found out who a few of the orphans are and also that some of the children are walking over 6km a day to get to school.. Little Raimu (who I always worry about, he seems so unhappy) walks the furthest, nobody showed up for him today.  I'm going to walk home with him on Monday to see what the situation is..
 
The men sat separately from the women, they all seemed to listen and seemed interested in what our teachers were saying but obviously I couldn't understand.  I had to introduce myself which was scary! But my Swahili is getting better & they didn't laugh which is a big improvement hehe, normally when I try to speak Swahili I get hysterical laughter in response.
 
They all sat on the floor on one side of the classroom & the children sat on the other, we tried to make the children sit quietly & behave for their parents but it didn't quite go to plan haha - but when does it ever go to plan in this place?  The children sang a song at the end (which we had rehearsed earlier) and the parents found this hilarious, the children love to dance and shake their hips it's so funny.. got so many videos already!
 
Apparently the point of the meeting was to inform the parents of the importance of encouraging their children to go to pre-school, so they can (hopefully) pass the test and get into primary school when they're 7 years old.  They were told what their children were learning & asked to help their children get to school, make sure they were fed & washed etc.. who knows if it will help.  We also got permission to take them all to hospital! It costs 1000 Tsh (about 40p) per child and 3000 Tsh if they need any drugs so me & Rob are going to pay for the visit for every child, hopefully we can go next week - a great result!
 
None of the children seemed excited or proud to have their parents in the same room as them.  None of the parents waited for their children when they left.  None of the children ever get brought to school or picked up.
 
Monsoon
 
The weather changed this week & so did the tides, very strange.  The heavy/long rains seem to have stopped & the humidity is less intense which is an AMAZING feeling - like being able to breathe again!  It's hotter now with more sunshine but it feels bearable because it's less humid, more fresh.  Been able to go to the beach in the early evening for a swim which is lovely, it's the only way to cool down here! (well sort of - the sea is like a hot bath some days).
 
Witch
 
So a witch came to my roommates school yesterday...!  It's just round the corner from my school.  She was wearing all black, her head covered too, with a basket of fruit on her head.  She beckoned to Amanda to go over, and being the sweet girl that she is, she went straight over to say hello.  At which point Jimmy (the head teacher) ran outside with a stick screaming 'Go away witch' (except a little more profane & in Swahili)
 
According to Jimmy the Witch turns up every so often. The fruit she has on her head is poisoned & she gives it to the children then tries to take them away.
 
All in a normal school day here!
 
Funerals
 
I've seen 2 funerals now, one on my first week here & one today..  Today they were parading around the village with the corpse on a sort of make-shift wooden stretcher thing above their heads, everyone was singing and chanting, they came straight past school whilst we were painting, didn't really know where to look or what to do..  Then they came back a short while later with no body.  There are no graveyards here & there are no shops selling coffins, although that appears to be rare, as all the way down the main road to Dar there are carpenters making coffins.  Probably because nobody here can afford one.
 
The other time, the corpse  was just lying on the side of the road outside a house, covered in a cloth & everyone was sat on the roadside around it moaning & swaying.  I have to walk past that house every day on the way to and from school & there's always something going on in there. One day there was a big procession down the road with drums, singing & lots of shouting and they all ended up banging on the door then going inside.  Yassini (our head teacher) said it's a Witch Doctor (some people call them Wizards) who lives there.  There's a big X marked on the outside of the house, there are many houses around the village that have this X but I have no idea what it means.
 
You can ask questions all you like here and never get a sound answer.  The ability to get the wrong message is huge.  Nobody ever seems to know quite what's going on, either that or they don't know how to say it in English and then everyone just gets confused.  This is one of the major issues we have at school.  Highly frustrating.
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Monday, May 21st 2007

10:09 PM

Zanzibar - Tropical Paradise?

  • Mood: Tired
  • Music: Tanzania radio - slightly mental
I went to Zanzibar this weekend with Rob & Amanda.. Contrary to popular belief it's not an island, it's actually an Archipelago made up of many islands, the biggest 'Unguja' is what tourists call Zanzibar and that's where we went..
 
Well they aren't lying when they say it's home to some of the world's most beautiful beaches! It's a small Indian Ocean Island, the sea is totally clear and the sand is white like I've never seen before. These beaches kick ass compared to all the beaches I've ever been to including Thailand & Vietnam..
 
We went on a boat trip on an authentic Tanzanian style Dow sail boat with a bunch of mad fishermen-turned-tour-guides (very peaceful without an engine, also a little unnerving at times) to do some snorkeling over the coral reef (amazing! - never done this before) we also tried to find dolphins but couldn't sooo gutted as I've never seen any before, and we could have swum with them in the wild, but no luck this time unfortunately. 
 
We had a fresh seafood BBQ, which if you know me you'll know I was extremely happy at this point, climbed a Baobab tree some 500 years old and 10 metres in diameter!! (These trees are like nothing you've ever seen before - take a look here if you're interested http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baobab_tree ) after which we ate the Baobab tree fruits along with 10 other types of fruit in a tasting session which was very delicious and interesting (there are an amazing amount of fruits out here I've never even heard of before - the children at school can easily reel off about 30 if you ask them - fancy that - Children --> Fruit??!!)
 
After that we went sailing on an old fashioned Catamaran Dow then went to swim in a Mangrove Lagoon on the way home, although I convinced myself there were anacondas in there so I was quite scared hehe.
 
Stone Town, the heart of the island, where we stayed, is very busy with tiny narrow streets and wonderful architecture dating back to the 17th century, with Arab, African & Colonial influences all merged together.  Not forgetting all the buildings they used to keep the slaves in before shipping them off to the East (this, along with Bagamoyo, is where the slave trade originally begun). There's an outdoor food market which I didn't dare eat anything from & of course the infamous spice market (I bought lots of tea) as well as hundreds of little Dukas (shops) selling traditional art, jewellery etc, just a shame it was so stressful going shopping.
 
We also went to Prison Island (it's all in the name) and stood exactly where the slaves used to wait before getting on the ships... there are original shackles still attached to the floor, very eery and hard to imagine the monstrosity that happened right there under your feet for hundreds of years. 
 
Prison Island has a population of zero humans and 110 giant tortoises, donated by an Arab Sheik about 100 years ago as a gift, so we went to play with them for a while - they're brilliant!! Absolutely massive, some are 150 years old! We fed them spinach and they have these big tongues hehe.. great fun.
 
So those are the good bits! 
 
But before you think that I'm just swanning off on holiday and lounging around in the sun over here - please try to understand the bad points about travelling to Zanzibar:
 
1. Must go through Dar Es Salaam - ie. hell - to get anywhere.
2. Must get the Daladala - ie. hell x 40 people on a 16 seater bus - to get to Dar.
3. Must get 2 hour 'sick ferry'  from Dar to Zanzibar. (Incredibly rough crossing - my head is still spinning.)
4. Must put up with Mzungu prices everywhere (at least 3 x Swahili price).
5. Must fight with taxi drivers who decide to change the price then lock the doors.
6. Must get chased down the street by shop workers who want you to buy there stuff.
7. Must get chased down the street by 'tour guides' who want to take you places to pay for their drug habits.
8. Must walk past many 'policemen' holding AK47s on dark alleyways.
9. Must not get lost in the thousands of dark alleyways that make up Stone Town (impossible).
10. Must stay in a hostel with no bathroom and no fan.
11. Possibility of Anaconda attack. Ha!
12. Must return to Bagamoyo, through Dar, on the Daladala, at night in the total darkness.
 
Catch my drift? I won't go on.
 
So when you ask me if I enjoyed Zanzibar, I'm more inclined to say no.  It is beautiful, yes, but the hassles and pushy salesmen etc just really spoil a nice trip. Everywhere you turn you get overcharged and chased and the touts get aggressive and it's very dark and easy to get lost.. 
 
And then I return absolutely shattered on a Sunday night, not what you would expect after visiting a tropical paradise...
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Monday, May 21st 2007

7:50 PM

Rant - 7.30pm Monday

  • Mood: Too exhausted to be pissed off
  • Music: Dogs barking
Just a quick rant.. i only just got in from school, i started at 8am this morning.  Except for the one hour break we had which consisted of walking around the village on the hottest day yet under the blazing African sun (exhausting) to buy paint...
 
Last week we were given permission to paint the school - what a result! Hopefully it can go from looking like a prison cell at Attercliffe police station to a beautiful bright and breezy children's school in Bagamoyo... 
 
The walls weren't even plastered, so we had that done last week (we got ripped off on the old price when they saw I was a Mzungu) and it has now dried.  Dried?! - Except for the fact that we just spent 5 hours painting them with white oil paint before it all started to slowly disappear before our very eyes.... all that effort for nothing??!
 
Can anybody help me? Do you know how to stop this paint being sucked away by the porous, badly cemented walls??? In a place that only sells one brand of (crap) paint and no primer/base layer/emulsion! We already spent our entire budget today for zero result..
 
AND we have a deadline - Friday night!! (I'll explain why soon..)
 
I just ate a whole packet of jelly babies that i travelled over an hour on the Daladala to buy, so life isn't too bad right now. Time to shower now in the rain, I'm covered in paint - will post photos of the 'mess' asap.
2 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Tuesday, May 8th 2007

11:00 PM

My first week in Bagamoyo

  • Mood: Tired, hot, sweaty & being eaten by bugs
  • Music: Cricket & lizard noise!
Mambo! Poa?! (Hey! How are you? I'm Cool!)
 
Hello everyone & thank you all for your continued interest in my project.. Before I go on I want to say thanks again to all of you who gave kind donations and helped to make this happen, and a BIG thank you to Qatar Airways who allowed me to take the supplies on the plane at no extra cost, without their generosity the children would currently have nothing.
 
(And a cheeky reminder that you can still donate now or even after I return! There is so much the people out here need..)
 
 
About the project
 
Well at least I know exactly what I'm doing now! I'm volunteering at a 'school' for the most underprivileged children in Bagamoyo, amongst them are orphans but I don't know which ones are because the aim is to treat them all the same and integrate them into normal life.
 
The school is called BACCA 2 (Bagamoyo Childrens Care Association) and was set up by a Swedish couple, both medical doctors who work with the hospital here.  The Zukri Foundation (the volunteer organisation here in Baga that I work for) has taken over the organisation of the school and the providing of volunteers etc.
 
The only requirement to be able go to the school is to have a pair of shoes & to pay 1000 Tsh (Tanzanian Shillings) a month which equals less than $1 US, or 35 pence... the only reason they have these requirements is to filter out the hundreds of children who need education in the village.
 
There are nearly 60 children enrolled (ages 4-6) & it's approximately half girls half boys. Most of them are sick with coughs, colds, open sores on their feet, ankles and heads etc, not sure what this is a sign of but I can only imagine it's not great.  They get no medical attention so the first thing I have spent donated money on is medical kits for the school.  This has also caused great fun for the kids because they LOVE getting plasters on their cuts & show off about it to their friends!
 
The school is just one room resembling a prison...  It's totally run down & has bars on the windows & holes in the floor.  The children sit on the floor on mats & that's where I spend most of my day too.  Lessons consist of English, Swahili, Maths, Science, Art and 'Musiki' (the favourite!!) where they get to sing and dance.
 
The teachers Yassini, Mohammedi & Edina are around my age & have no qualifications, in fact they have only finished high school here which is less than GCSE age in the UK.  It's a massive responsibility for people so young and they need a lot of help themselves, especially with English.
 
Aims
 
I have realised, even after such a short space of time, that I need to start at the top.  It's ok giving the children attention, affection, time & helping them with their work but it's the teachers who will remain here after I'm gone.. With that in mind i'm going to try & teach the teachers English & computer skills in my spare time (afternoons) & set up better methods for teaching, more interactive lessons & help the teachers make lesson plans & come up with more creative ideas.  It's not that they don't have them but the adults here have NO access to information and no idea how to implement new ideas, so hopefully I'll be able to give them some confidence in their own abilities. 
 
The most astonishing thing is how willing the adults are to learn, everywhere you go people want to talk to you & we all have hoards of people asking for English lessons.  It's the polar opposite to the UK where we have all this access to education that we just seem to disregard & take for granted.  These people have no opportunities, no further education & yet they want it SO much.
 
About Bagamoyo
 
Baga is a tiny little village in the middle of nowhere.  It consists of a beautiful beach, a fish market, a couple of mosques and churches, various arts centres (it is home to some of the country's most talented artists) one road & lots of people, banana trees and coconut palms.  People are everywhere, that never fails to astonish me.  Driving from Dar Es Salaam, the amount of people wandering around the road side, especially barefoot children, was unbelievable.  (Dar is, by the way, disgusting, we got pick-pocketed and hustled everywhere we went.. it was a hot polluted nightmare).
 
It's basically a jungle, with some mud huts and some proper houses, there are dirt tracks but you can walk anywhere, through the fields, through people's back gardens, it's so difficult to get a sense of direction with no focal points & no road signs.  The whole place is so much greener than I ever imagined, but it is monsoon season, which means the MOST torrential rain I've ever seen followed by burning sunshine, even at night it's around 30 Celsius.
 
Everyday life
 
We all live in a little house with 2 kitchens, 2 living areas, shared bedrooms with a bathroom in each one, a 'Banda' (like an outside hut area) & a little yard at the back.  Cooking is done in the yard on hot coals and takes forever.  We have cold showers & there is never any water, plus power cuts many times a day (one reason why I'm writing so much now, it can go out for weeks on end apparently!)
 
My day starts at 6.30am when I get woken up by the sun/rain/cockerel, our room gets ridiculously hot because we have no glass in our windows, just sort of mesh bug nets and bars so night time here is quite an unpleasant time!
 
Then it's breakfast at 7 followed by a 40 minute walk to school in the blazing sunshine or pouring rain.. school is at 8-11.30 (before it gets unbearably hot).  Then it's the walk home again for lunch under the blazing African sun & the walk back again to teach the adults in the afternoon or they come to our home to use the computers instead.  Then spare time to collapse, go to the beach (only in a group for safety reasons) or blag one of the hotel guards about a mile away to use the pool.
 
It's pitch black at night & a bit dangerous to go out so we just stay in our little commune! There's nothing to do anyway so we just sit around, play cards, listen to music, prepare lessons, go on the Internet (now that we have it at home thanks to Frank, one of the other volunteers, who has paid for a years worth of Internet - and you know how much it costs here??!!! $300 US per month!! Can you believe that?) Can't get any snacks or alcohol in the village so it's not exactly exciting for us..
 
Africa Time
 
"TIA!" This Is Africa!! - A popular saying I do believe...  But it's so true - here in Tanzania they do actually have a different time system!
 
The sun rises at 6am so this is hour 1, then the day goes on from there! So midday is hour 7 and so on... it's very bizarre but makes sense in a place with no clocks where the sun rises & sets at the same time all year round.
 
So Africa time is officially 6 hours slower than Western time hehehe & this is seen everywhere you go: half finished buildings, meals taking hours to arrive, nothing getting done on time, people asleep everywhere.. amazing.  It's not a good place to be if you get easily frustrated!
 
Banana Pasta
 
We get fed at 7,1 & 7 and the only way I can describe the diet is 'The ANTI-Atkins' haha.  It's totally carbohydrate based, including Ugali (cornmeal mush), rice, pasta (rare apparently) bananas, bread, plantain & chapatti (mmmm my favourite) with some sort of sauce.  For example, we had banana pieces that looked like pasta in a red sauce the other day... very 'inventive!' Breakfast is one egg & fruit with delicious Chai tea, not forgetting 3 litres of bottled water everyday which just comes straight back out every pore of the body.. nice.
 
The 'Others'
 
Staff:
We have the lovely Happi (and yes she lives up to her name!) who is the cook and Eliza who is the cleaner, both of them are hilarious and will help with anything in any way they can.  They live just next door & stay here nearly all day & night, every day of the week.  Then there's Kristin & Douglas who run the charity and Barnabas our resident handyman, plus the man who comes to fix the Internet (every day!) We also have 2 'guards' at night who are mostly a little bit scary but we haven't been burgled yet so they're doing something right...
 
Volunteers:
At the moment a Kiwi couple Ken & Fiona (24) an English couple Martin & Aleysha (19) Alex (from Manchester, 20 something) Amanda my lovely roommate from Canada (24), Frank from California (in his 50's) , Brynn also from California (20 something, just got back from S.Africa where she was flown to have an emergency appendectomy..poor thing) and Jen (20 something) from Canada, we're all working in different schools apart from Alex, Jen & Brynn who are on the arts programme.
 
The Others..... a non-exhaustive list including: Dogs (rabid), cats, chickens, cows, goats, frogs, lizards, preying mantis, cockroach, birds, rats (in the house & on the roof) mosquitoes, snakes, spiders and many other things that make me jump and scare the hell out of me!
 
MZUNGU!!!!
 
This word literally means 'Wandering European' but is used to mean 'White Person' and is seen as being a little bit rude, for example the children at school get told off for saying it (it's slightly racist).
 
However - this is shouted at me WHEREVER I go.. sometimes I'll be somewhere that I can't even see anyone else but will still hear MZUNGU being called from afar.. it's like the locals can smell me hehe, they come out of their houses to stare at me, some with their mouths wide open.. it's really quite funny, but I can't go anywhere without it.  I also get charged Mzungu prices in the shops & get the Mzungu seat on the Daladala (bus) & the staff at the house laugh at us for wearing Mzungu clothes and for burning in the sun...
 
Enough!
 
Hope you've found this interesting...   Sorry it's long but please bear in mind that everywhere I look, everything I see, touch, smell, hear is different and new and fascinating all at once - That's without starting to talk about the beautiful adorable children who bring happiness to my life 5 mornings a week... that can be for next time! x
 
 
 
2 Comment(s) / Post Comment